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Fashion & Design

Hermès

An exceptional collection of original artwork, books and ephemera relating to and published by the celebrated French luxury brand. Paris: Hermès, 1967-2016.

Approximately 210 pieces, various formats, books, brochures and periodicals from small octavo to large square quarto. The entire collection in excellent condition overall. 45 books; 32 Hermès magazines; 3 framed and glazed original artworks; 9 original boxes; a substantial collection of ephemera.

A rare opportunity to acquire a fine and extensive archive of material relating to one of the great fashion houses of the world.

A complete list is available on request.

Superbly wide ranging and cogently assembled archive of material relating to the celebrated French luxury brand, including some fine original artwork by Hermès scarf designer Dominik Jarlegant, inscribed books containing original sketches by artists Hubert de Watrigant, Philippe Dumas and Kermit Oliver, many lavishly produced monographs, brochures, related ephemera and a number of the famous orange boxes, all reflecting the highest production values associated with the house of Hermès.

Hermès French Luxury Brand Books

In 1837 Thierry Hermès established a high-end harness manufactory in the Grands Boulevard quarter of Paris. His son, Charles-Émile succeeded to the business and, in 1880, moved the shop to the fashionable rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, where it remains to this day. With the assistance of his sons, Charles-Émile broadened the business to include saddlery and established it as one of the great luxury brands of the late 19th century, numbering the tsar of Russia among its clients. At the beginning of the 20th century Hermès secured exclusive rights to use the recently refined zip fastener in clothes and leather goods, which became known in France as the fermeture Hermès. The brand went from strength to strength, opening branches in the United States in the 20s and, in the 30s, introducing to their catalogue handbags, women’s couture, the “chaîne d’ancre” bracelet, timepieces and their signature and renowned range of scarves. The early 50s saw the introduction of the company logo of the Duc-carriage-with-horse and instantly recognisable orange paper boxes.

Highlights include:

JARLEGANT, Dominik. Three original designs signed by Hermès scarf artist Dominik Jarlegant

 

JARLEGANT, Dominik. Three original designs signed by Hermès scarf artist Dominik Jarlegant, framed and glazed: two original finished pencil and watercolour drawings for “Tuiga” and “Claque au Vent” (measuring respectively: image 300 x 300 mm, overall 450 x 450 mm; 350 x 350 mm, 450 x 450 mm). An original pencil sketch showing block and tackle, ropes and a nautical flag, elements used in the design issued as “Tuiga” (200 x 200 mm; 360 x 330 mm), Acquired directly from the artist, the two watercolours carrying his signed certificate of authentication.

 

WATRIGANT, Hubert de. Passion Cheval. Lausanne: Éditions les Trois Crayons, 2012

WATRIGANT, Hubert de. Passion Cheval. Lausanne: Éditions les Trois Crayons, 2012

Square quarto. Original black boards. With the dust jacket. Illustrated throughout in colour and monochrome.

First edition. Presentation copy from the author, inscribed on a preliminary blank: “To Sam (again) with all my pleasure to do (again) this drawing. With all best wishes. Hubert de Watrigant”, accompanied by a superb original thumbnail equestrian sketch. Hubert de Watrigant is one of Hermès major scarf designers and an artist with an international reputation for his equestrian and bullfighting paintings.

 

WATRIGANT, Hubert de. Colores. Bordeaux: Art et Aficion, 2014

WATRIGANT, Hubert de. Colores. Bordeaux: Art et Aficion, 2014

Square quarto. Original black boards. With the dust jacket. Illustrated throughout in colour.

First edition. Presentation copy from the author, inscribed on the verso of the front free endpaper: “Londres 15 v 15 To Sam con abrazo fuerte con todo agradecimiento [with a big hug and all thanks] Hubert de Watrigant”, accompanied by a fine original pencil sketch of a bull.

 

DUMAS, Philippe. Fils Hermès. Paris: Brunet Elizabeth, 2007

Octavo, paperback. Original cellophane wrapper.

First edition, first impression, decidedly uncommon: issued in a putative edition of 150 copies. This book tells the story of Hermès “from the inside”, providing insights into the origins and evolution of the house, the demanding quality standards and the creative influences in its goal to create objects which are both functional and beautiful. Written and copiously illustrated by Philippe Dumas, member of the Hermès family, scarf designer and illustrator of the Hermès website and numerous Hermès publications. Philippe, brother of Jean-Louis Dumas, one of the great leaders of the house, tells the story of Hermès over several decades through touching, funny or revealing stories known only to a family “insider”.

 

DUMAS, Philippe. L’Equitation et l’Ecole espagnole de Vienne. Paris: Flammarion/ éditions du chat perché, 1980

DUMAS, Philippe. L’Equitation et l’Ecole espagnole de Vienne. Paris: Flammarion/ éditions du chat perché, 1980

Square quarto. Original pictorial boards. Illustrated throughout with line drawings by Philippe Dumas.

First edition. Presentation copy, inscribed on the dedication page (opposite title): “A Jean Saclier le livre qu’il a lu au grand galop [the book that he read at a great gallop], Ph Dumas”, accompanied by an amusing original thumbnail sketch of a horseman reading a book astride a galloping horse.

 

DUMAS, Phillipe. À Cheval: la passion de l’art équestre. Paris: Archimède/ l’ecole des loisirs, 2002

DUMAS, Phillipe. À Cheval: la passion de l’art équestre. Paris: Archimède/ l’ecole des loisirs, 2002

Square quarto. Original pictorial boards.

First edition. Presentation copy from the author, inscribed on the half-title: “A Sam qui aime les chavaux – avec un gros baiser de l’auteur, Ph Dumas”, accompanied by a superb original drawing filling the page, of a female figure flanked by horses, highlighted with red pencil and green ink.

 

MENCHARI, Leïla. The Hermès Shop Windows: Tales of a Wanderer. Text by Michèle Gazier. Preface by Michel Tournier. Translated by Cynthia Hope Liebow. Paris: Imprimerie Nationale, 2000

Quarto. Original sage-green cloth, spine and front cover lettered in gilt. With the dust jacket. Illustrated throughout in colour.

First edition, first impression. Much sought after amongst Hermès aficionados, this showcase volume catalogues the celebrated window displays by Leïla Menchari for Hermès’ flagship store at 24 rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. Captured in sumptuous full-page and double-spread photographs, the themed displays include unique and extravagant Birkin and Kelly handbags, saddles and scarves.

 

DUMAS, Alice. Hermès Crafts Illustrated. Paris: Hermès, 1995

Small landscape octavo. Pictorial wrappers. Illustrated throughout by the author.

First edition. Presentation copy from the author, inscribed on the front free endpaper: “Pour Monique qui a choisi le bon parfum, avec les compliment d’Alice Dumas Sept ‘95”. A particularly elusive title. Alice Dumas was the great-granddaughter of Emile Hermès, grandson of the founder of the Hermès dynasty.

 

CATALOGUES Peter Harrington Rare Books

CATALOGUES: substantial run of Hermès’ twice yearly full-colour catalogues of new scarf issues and re-issues in all formats.  These periodicals form an essential archive of scarf releases for the collector and are highly sought after.  This collection spans more than 26 years and includes all catalogues from Autumn/Winter 1991 onwards plus Autumn/Winter 1989 and Autumn/Winter 1990.  Also included are the supplementary scarf story booklets and a number of booklets or cards concerning special issue scarves and special formats.

 

DUMAS, Philippe, & Ionic Parlier. Robidu. Paris: Hachette literature, 1972

DUMAS, Philippe, & Ionic Parlier. Robidu. Paris: Hachette literature, 1972

Landscape octavo. Original cream-coloured rough cloth. With the (torn) dust jacket.

First edition. Presentation copy from the author, inscribed amusingly on the half-title: “Pour Rani et Mich en m’excusant de la betise totale de ce livre. Avec l’indestrucible affection de Ionic [apologizing for the total stupidity of this book. With the indestructible affection of Ionic]”, accompanied by a delightful signed pen and ink sketch by Philippe Dumas, showing the hero of the bookwearing a dunce’s cap (marked “ane” – “ass”).

 

KERMIT OLIVER. Small archive of two original sketches, autograph letters and notes

KERMIT OLIVER. Small archive of two original sketches, autograph letters and notes, and photocopies of drawings. Kermit Oliver, a native of Texas and the only American artist to be commissioned by Hermès, is one of their most celebrated scarf designers, specialising in flora and fauna and subjects relating to Native Americans. A famously private man, he continued his work as a postal worker whilst working for Hermès, and the two original sketches here date from when his US Postal Service depot was earmarked for closure. Original drawings: 1. reproduction of a late 19th-century drawing of a Bacchanale, to which Oliver has skilfully added the incongruous figure of a girl in cowboy boots waving at a USPS campervan waiting at the kerb for the Bacchanale to mount up (145 x 265 mm); 2. original sketch in purple ink of the employees of a USPS depot looking into the back of a truck containing a solitary crate (170 x 220 mm). Provenance: obtained directly from one of Oliver’s co-workers at the USPS.

Together with a copy of:

WARDLAW, Alvia J.. Notes from a Child’s Odyssey: The Art of Kermit Oliver. Houston: The Museum of Fine Arts, 2005

Square octavo. Original cream-coloured cloth, window-cut front cover with framed image mounted on following leaf. Illustrated throughout in colour. First edition, first printing, of this attractively produced exhibition catalogue.

 

JOUBIN, Arnault. La selle Hermès. Paris: Editions du collectionneur, 1993

JOUBIN, Arnault. La selle Hermès. Paris: Editions du collectionneur, 1993

Square quarto. Original black cloth, title embossed on front cover. With the dust jacket. Illustrated throughout in monochrome and colour.

First edition, first impression. Uncommon and handsomely produced study devoted to Hermès saddlery.  Hermès consider that their first client was the horse and the company nods to its origins throughout its diverse product range where the imagery of the horse, saddle and tack abound, where bags like the Birkin and Kelly are handmade using saddle stitch and the opening of a new store is marked by the passage of a horse into the store as the first to cross the threshold. This volume pulls back the curtain to reveal a rich history and gives a behind-the-scenes view of a fundamental part of the illustrious house of Hermès.

 

CHAR, Marie, & Michèle Gazier. Orient- Hermès: Voyages de Leïla Menchari. Preface de Fréderic Mitterand. Paris: Éditions des Busclats, 2010

Square quarto. Paperback.

First edition, first impression. Exhibition catalogue to accompany the “Orient-Hermès” show at the Institut du Monde Arabe.  The exhibition showcased examples of Leïla Menchari’s celebrated Hermès shop windows which were inspired by and drew upon Middle-Eastern themes and influences.

 

COLLECTION of Hermes’ publications on how to tie your Hermès scarf

COLLECTION of Hermes’ publications on how to tie your Hermès scarf, includes two volumes (1998 hardback and 2002 paperback) in signature Hermès orange; Post Scarves, How to Tie, booklets, Soie Folle, Folle de Soie, Paris Mon Ami and numerous other booklets.  Together with all six issues of Hermès’ Knotting Cards (all as new, cellophane sealed and presented in their orange Hermès boxes.  All publications are instructional volumes on styling your Hermès scarf in diverse ways including headwear, neckwear, handbag adornment and as a garment and are fully illustrated showing the new season’s scarves for the respective year of publication.

 

J’AIME mon carré [I love my square]: Histoire des carrés – 2008 booklet collection (2 sets)

J’AIME mon carré [I love my square]: Histoire des carrés – 2008 booklet collection (2 sets)

Promotional package presented in a classic Hermès orange scarf box (with tissue packaging) – deeply uncommon on the market.  Each package contains a series of 7 individual promotional booklets together with a sample of a classic Hermès scarf print.  Since the samples are cut from real scarves every package would be entirely unique.  The two examples offered feature “La Danse du Cheval Marwari” by Annie Faivre in blue and “Astrologie” by Francois Faconnet in peppermint and yellow.

 

BUREN, Daniel. Photos-Souvenirs au carré. Paris: Éditions Xavier Barral, 2011

Square quarto. Original cloth.With the dust jacket and original Hermès orange box with tissue and ribbon.

In 2009, Hermès invited artist Daniel Buren (born 1938) to design its emblematic silk scarves. Consisting of 365 unique pieces, Buren’s series incorporates 22 of his Photos-Souvenirs, an archive of thousands of photographs that he has accumulated since the 1950s.

 

BOLOFO, Koto. La Maison. Göttingen: Steidl, 2011

BOLOFO, Koto. La Maison. Göttingen: Steidl, 2011

11 volume square octavo. Original boards. Housed in the original Hermès orange slipcase. Illustrated throughout in colour and monochrome.

First edition, first impression. Presentation set from the author, inscribed in volume I “To Nicholas – Koto Bofolo, 21 January 2012”. Superbly produced photographic chronicle, each volume devoted to a specific aspect of the Hermès brand. Koto Bolofo – South African born but British raised – met Hermès creative director Jean-Louis Dumas through their mutual love of horses and he was the first photographer to be granted unlimited access to the private workshops of Hermès. La Maison, itself an elaborate object comprising eleven volumes and the result of seven years’ work, showcases Bolofo’s painstaking documentation of the Hermès universe.